A Seaside Rendezvous

Back on the Balkan Express, we eased our way into Serbia, passed Nis and stopped in the capital, Belgrade. The trip was very pleasant, the cabin was shared with a young female uni student and a ragged 'businessman' who had about eight winter coats around the cabin. The coats were wrapped up in a big bundle after we'd crossed the border. He also went back and forth, screwdriver in hand, to the WC. On one occasion he left with an empty sports bag to return with a packed sports bag. The armed border police payed particular attention to our cabin, inspecting under the seats and between the armrests. One guard came in to poke around the ceiling cavities and heating system but found nothing. The 'businessman' bought us a packet of biscuits to share at one stop and entertained many guests who got on and off the train regularly, leaving or taking bags or packages. At one stage we had twice the amount of luggage than in the beginning. We took no photographs.





Belgrade was to be a transit stop but it became a main event, holding our interest for five days. We voted in the Federal election, took up passive smoking, made plans for the weeks ahead and got very comfortable in our hostel, just near the centre of town.










We saw a lot of the town on foot, getting off trams way before we should have. I like this shot because of the grass on the tram tracks, it looked fantastic in the middle of the city, against the drab pavement and bitumen. Maurizio is the fella on the left, from Milan. He joined us to visit the 'furniture exhibition' which turned out to be largely office furniture, though we were treated well, particularly enjoying the massage chairs, as for all they knew, we were big OS buyers in town for the three day event.

Lisa and I visited the Kalemgdan Citadel on a few occasions, particularly enjoying the sunsets over the city and watching the Danube below.

Belgrade had many pastry opportunities. I found it hard to make a decision here but settled on a jumbo baklava, swimming in honey in a stainless steel bowl. The camera couldn't focus on my face as I recoiled with the sugar injection. It did focus a little on the ridiculous creations in the cabinet behind me. One was enough. Heavenly.

It was time for a trim, so we wandered next door for the royal treatment. This barber and I chatted with our hands for a bit and he was off to work. Lisa got out the camera and he called for his daughter. He then got out a bottle of Rakia and we all endured a glass, his was the biggest, before resuming my haircut. Traditionally, I've always said that hard alcohol and haircutting don't mix, but he seemed to have done it before and matched my right side to my left. He was very proud of being a Serbian Christian, that was for sure.

After museums, cafes, cooking and resting, it was time to take the overnight train down to Podgorica and bus it out to Budva, on the Montenegrin coast. We ran into Scott, an Australian we'd met in Belgrade and the three of us rented a pansion together, $30 for a little apartment on the top of a big house in the town centre. We cooked in our own kitchen and enjoyed the various citrus and pomegranates that the Mama left in our room every day. This shot is the view from the road up from our apartment back to the fortified Stari Grad (Old Town).

Contemplating my next move by the Budva Marina.

We walked as far as possible around the coastline, looking back to Stari Grad admiring the occasional brass sculpture looking out over the Adriatic Sea towards Italy.

The next stop was Kotor, further north up the coast, situated on the deepest fjord in Europe. We were approached by a man at the bus station and decided to take up his accomodation offer. We arrived at their house and were promptly served brandy and turkish style coffee, they were a lovely old couple with a spectacular view. We later met their son, daughter and friend who spoke plenty of English and were keen to show us around. This shot is from in front of the house, this team paddled past every day, despite the cool weather.

Taken from the same position as above outside the house, looking left as the sun set.

They were interesting siblings, these two, she had much more English than he did but he was very keen to communicate. Here in a club in the old city, we sampled a few of the local beers and enjoyed the company of Kotor's beautiful peolple.

They took us for a drive around the bay to Parast the next day. We chose not to rent.

Walking along another beautiful road, crystal clear water, narrow streets and a range of buildings currently being snapped up by the rich and famous from Russia and the UK.

We pulled over to let this wedding procession pass. We were told that they're driving through the bride's old neighbouhood where residents ply the party with booze. Notice the hand on the horn in the red car. This hooting seemed popular amongst the sloshed motorists.

That afternoon, I took my hiking companion up to the top of the old town, along the fort line.

We were all alone except for two nuns cleaning the chapel at the halfway mark. I'm told that having to reach the top of any given hill is a boy thing.

Back outside the house, we met ??? the next day before he set out. A giant cruise ship had docked in Kotor and flooded the town with Brits, Ruskis and Americans dripping with travel accesories and high expectations of customer service. A trip to Herceg Novi and a few meals out and we were ready to get moving. Off to Croatia.

Two days in Dubrovnik gave us time to visit the old town at different times of the day and have a few coffees around town. This is a laneway inside the old town, plenty of spending opportunities here.

Looking back at the Dalmaitian Coast from the southern wall of Stari Grad.

Looking out over the Adriatic. We stayed here to watch the sun set and will remeber the view, not only because of the beautiful buildings changing colour but because we decided together that we would continue our trip beyond January.

Another little bay near the Old Town.

Just before the bus into Herzegovina we had our Burek and pastry lunch on the bay. Croatia is one we'd love to return to when we're millionaires.